Baluchari Saree of Bishnupur

Baluchari sarees are hand-woven in richly dyed silk, depicting stories from ancient India, including from the Ramayana and Mahabharata.  The famous characters of Ram, Sita, Krishna and Gopis are displayed exuberantly along the borders, and whole scenes are presented on the large pallus. Some designs include kings, noblemen and graceful dancing girls with celebratory scenes and ceremonies. The vivid colors, intricate fine silk designs and deep traditions combine to create the elegant beauty of the unique Baluchari Sarees.

The tradition of Baluchari Sarees originates from a village called Baluchar in Murshidabad District in West Bengal.  Over two hundred years ago Murshidkuli Khan, the Nawab of Bengal patronized this weaving tradition and the Baluchari art flourished.  Over the years there was decline in Baluchar and many weavers gave up the profession. In the twentieth century, Subho Tagore, a famous artist, made efforts to revitalise the rich tradition of Baluchari weaving. He showed Akshay Kumar Das, a weaver of Bishnupur, the technique of jacquard machine weaving. Akshay Kumar Das then began using the Baluchari designs to weave sarees in Bishnupur, a town in Bankura district, with jacquard looms. It takes two craftsmen working for almost a week to produce one saree. The main material used is silk and the saree is polished after weaving. Baluchari thus a sign of aristocracy, the attire of status.
The Baluchari saree designs are first sketched and then copied on to punching cards which are used in the jacquard loom to weave the pattern.  The cards have punched holes which correspond to the design. Thousands of punched cards are required for one saree design. Where there is a hole punched this raises a hook carrying the warp thread to be woven with the weft thread. These hooks can be connected to more than one thread, allowing multiple weaving of a repeat of a pattern.

Balucharis can be broadly categorized based on the threads used in weaving the patterns:

• Baluchari (resham): The simplest balucharis have resham threads in a single color to weave the entire pattern.
• Baluchari (meenakari): These balucharis have threads in two or more colours with attractive meenakari work that further brightens the patterns.
• Swarnachari (baluchari in gold), also called Swarnachuri: They are the most gorgeous balucharis, woven with gold (swarna) or silver colored threads (often with meenakari work in another color) that illuminate the patterns to a much larger extent.